15 January 2012 ~ 0 Comments

Nature Photographers Favorite Lens, the 70-200mm

While all photographers have their own favorite lens, probably the most commonly used by professionals in nature photography is the 70-200mm zoom. This lens can be used in so many different situations and if the situation quickly changes, the lens can also so that you don’t miss a single shot. Granted the high-end 70-200mm lens is big, heavy and expensive, but if you make your living with your camera or are highly dedicated to it as a hobby this is one amazing lens to have available.

When zoomed out to 70mm, the lens is wide enough to take in a broad landscape or show animals in their natural surroundings. On the other end of the spectrum at 200mm, it is telephoto enough to get tight on an animal in many situations or to create a foreshortened perspective on a landscape. And for even more of a zoom range; some 70-200mm lenses will work with a 1.4x teleconverter which will bring the zoom range up to 280mm on a full-frame sensor DSLR, or about 450mm on a DSLR with an APS-C sized sensor.

Even though the 70-200mm lens is big and heavy, with the f/2.8 versions being even more so than the f/4 models, even the biggest 70-200mm is smaller and lighter than a 300mm telephoto and especially a 400mm. This allows you to more easily carry the camera and lens combination for extended periods while shooting outdoors, and allows for easier setup when you are trying to get a shot as well.

The first zoom lenses were not very sharp, and serious photographers tended to avoid them. Then roughly 30 years ago, manual-focus zoom lenses with a range of 80-200mm appeared and were had good enough image quality that the serious shooters started to use them. Professional quality autofocus 80-200mm zooms appeared in the 1980’s, and eventually became the standard 70-200mm zoom that many pros use today.

When selecting a new 70-200mm zoom lens you have important decisions to make as they are a considerably expensive purchase. Do you stay with the OEM manufacturer or aftermarket? Do you want f/2.8 or will f/4 work for your needs? Do you need image-stabilization or not? And most importantly, do you really need to make this investment to improve your photography?

- Thankfully both OEM and aftermarket lenses are all excellent quality these days, and you can’t really go wrong with either choice. Some people prefer to only buy OEM equipment, and it’s not a bad decision though it may cost slightly more in the end to do so. It doesn’t matter if you have a Sony, Canon, Nikon, Sigma or any other brand as they are all excellent quality and worth the investment.

- The choice between the lightning quick f/2.8 and the slower f/4 is a big one. The f/4 lens will cost roughly half as much as the f/2.8 and it is smaller and lighter to carry. The huge benefit of the f/2.8 lens is that it lets in so much light you will never have to worry about not having enough ever again! Imagine that your perfect shot will never come out blurry due to low light. Just one perfect shot due to the f/2.8 can earn you more than the lens costs, and that shot lost due to the f/4 giving you a blurry photo can cost you a lot more than that.

- Image-Stabilization or Vibration-Reduction is another great advancement in lens technology. These two terms mean basically the same thing; clearer images at lower shutter speeds, and who doesn’t want that? Just expect to pay about $500 extra for it.

- Will a 70-200mm lens help you in the field? Will it allow you to capture shots you’ve been missing? Will it make it easier to spend time shooting instead of changing out lenses all the time as conditions or situations change? In short will the $1500 – $2500 price of the lens bring you at least that much or more in return?

If you do get a 70-200mm lens in any configuration I’m certain you will enjoy it and will get good use from it for many years to come. Remember that upgrading your lenses is more important than your camera body. You will keep the lenses no matter what camera you have, and a quality lens makes all the difference to your picture quality.

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30 April 2010 ~ 3 Comments

Canon SD850 SD870 SD900 Lens Repair is Back

The Canon Powershot SD800 series of cameras are very good, and very popular.  We used to perform the SD850 and SD870 lens repairs all the time, it was one of our best selling repair services! We repaired so many not because they are bad lenses or a bad camera, but just because there are so many out there.

The problem with the SD850 and DS870 IS lens repair is that the lens must be calibrated properly to work with the mainboard of the camera. If the lens isn’t calibrated properly it won’t focus properly! We used to have to put 5 or 6 lenses in each camera until we found one that would work properly.

We now have a program in place where we will install a 100% brand new OEM lens assembly in the camera and make sure that it is calibrated and working properly, so we are able to once again offer our customers many lens repairs that we had to drop from our offerings.

Canon SD800 lens repair, Canon SD850 lens repair, Canon SD870 lens repair, Canon SD900 lens repair

If we can help with your Canon Powershot SD series lens repair, or another that you don’t see listed, please let us know! We now have the ability to offer repair for many models we previously could not.

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03 August 2009 ~ 29 Comments

11/04/08 Canon Powershot Lens Barrier Repair UPDATED: PICS ADDED!

Many people have asked about repairing their front covers/flaps on their Canon PowerShot SD series cameras, so I’ve written up some instructions. I have added photos!! Each link is a helpful photo of an actual repair I did on a customer camera. Please let others know if you found this article helpful.

The barrier kit on most Canon PowerShot SD series cameras is a little tricky but not impossible to replace yourself. All you need is some patience, a steady hand and a small tipped screwdriver. We use dental picks, they work great!
Here are the parts in the kit. The pink bubble wrap is my anti-static workspace!

To start, you will need to turn on the camera and extend the lens, then open the battery door to turn off the camera and keep the lens out. This allows you to easily work on the lens barrier assembly. The yellow arrow points to where the next part is to be inserted.

The first part that goes in is the barrel drive ring; it has a small part sticking down into the lens. The image linked here shows the drive ring installed and the arrows point to where the spring connects (top arrow) and the barrier plate or flat is inserted (bottom arrow). Some cameras don’t have one, so if there isn’t one in your kit then your camera doesn’t need it. Make sure it rotates slightly once it has been inserted, otherwise its not in properly and will jam the lens.

Next are the springs and flaps. Put one spring on each of the flaps, there are little tabs to hold them on. They are TINY, they are hard to hold and if you drop it… lets just say DON’T drop it on the carpet, ok? We do have just the springs available for purchase, but please try not to lose them.

Gently put the flap in the hole with the spring laying towards the post that the free end will mount on; then with something with a very small tip (we use dental picks!) gently grab the loop of the spring and stick it on its post.

Do this with the flaps in the open position, they will stay in place if you get them seated properly. If everything pops off, just start again. Try not to stretch out the springs, they need to remain tight for the assembly to work properly.

Then gently put on the barrier cover, it’s a flat plastic ring. There are tabs on the barrier cover, they match up with little slots on the lens and it locks into place. Be gentle, don’t force anything too hard or you will break it and the parts will not hold it place.

Not it?s time to test your skills! Put in the battery (cross your fingers) and press the power button! Did it work? Did it go *SPROING!* and all the parts flew across the room? Yeah I hope not, but I?ve been there myself so you?re not alone.

Once you have it working smoothly:

Next put the dual sided tape on the barrier cover. VERY IMPORTANT: Peel the tape off the yellow backing paper but DO NOT remove the paper from the side that is cut to match the shape of the tape!! Removing the small paper part will cause the tape to fold up on itself and stick together. Bye bye tape!

The tabs fold over the edge, don’t let them stick out or the lens cover won’t fit and the lens will jam. The arrow in the image above shows the tape tabs folded down in the correct spot. The tape lines up with one tab at about the 11 o’clock position, then fold the tabs over and press them in so they don’t stick out.

Now put on your chrome or black lens cap, line up the cap with the small indentation at the bottom, you’ll see how it goes on easily.

Fire up the camera again and admire your handywork! Congratulations you repaired your camera yourself for $20 and the good old Geek Squad told you it would be $200 and take 3-4 weeks to repair.

Hmm… I think I’m seeing the beginning of something big here! =)

Thomas Drayton.,
Owner; Darntoothysam.com

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